Bows, signets and 20th-century glam for 2024: 1stDibs jewelry report


Online luxury-goods marketplace 1stDibs released its first-ever jewelry report last month, naming the top trends its saw from buyers in 2023 along with a few predictions for this year, from antique to contemporary pieces.

Classic brands were top sellers last year, with a crop of glam, 20th-century designers on deck for 2024.

“At 1stDibs, we have more than 1,500 knowledgeable and passionate sellers offering coveted classics like antique Cartier earrings and Suzanne Belperron brooches,” said Anthony Barzilay Freund, editorial director at 1stDibs, in a statement.

“Whether you consider yourself a relative novice or a committed collector, jewelry’s power to enchant and delight is universal.”

Bow themes and signet rings are trending for 2024. Bulgari diamond brooch, 1950s and French art deco ring, 1920. Images courtesy of 1stDibs
Gold standards

In 2023, almost half a million pieces of jewelry were offered up on 1stDibs.

Reds and blues were the most popular gemstone hues of the year – the top two sellers were rubies and sapphires.

As for specific styles, choker necklaces saw a 21 percent increase year-over-year (y-o-y). The classic tennis bracelet jumped 11 percent in sales y-o-y, and pearl jewelry saw an uptick in purchases as well.

Baubles featuring serpents, often a symbol of protection and life, were also in-demand, with searches on 1stDibs increasing 15 percent y-o-y.

For the ever-important engagement ring, art deco was the number one choice in 2023, making up a whopping 49 percent of sales in the category. Contemporary styles were not far behind at 38 percent of purchases.

Art deco and contemporary engagement rings were best sellers in 2023. Images courtesy of 1stDibs

“First popularized in the early 20th century, art deco continues to be one of the most enduring styles in jewelry design,” Mr. Freund said, in a statement. “For engagement rings, especially, art deco is a classic and perennially in demand.”

The classics are always high on the list for 1stDibs, and 2023 proved no different, with Tiffany & Co. the top-selling brand.

“Tiffany & Co. introduced its now-classic, six-prong setting in 1886, but the jewelry house has stayed relevant for all these years by continuing to innovate,” Mr. Freund said, in a statement.

“Working with such visionary talents as Jean Schlumberger and Elsa Peretti, Tiffany has created legendary pieces that range in style and price, from gem-set brooches seen on the red carpet to sterling-silver pendants for everyday wear.”

Tiffany & Co. (bangle shown) and Cartier (ring shown) were the best-selling brands for 2023. Images courtesy of 1stDibs

Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari and David Yurman rounded out 1stDibs customer favorites – all five brands known for producing pieces that hold their value and never go out of style.

Looking towards the top trends for 2024, 1stDibs report offers some predictions.

Feminine bows will be big this year: Items added to the site featuring bows increased 91 percent in the fourth quarter of 2023 compared to the rest of the year.

And searches for signet rings, which feature a carved or inlaid design that signifies something personal for the wearer, were up 13 percent in December.

Lalalounis (gold fish cuff, 1960s) and Fred Paris (cabochon amethyst ring, 1980) are top picks for 2024. Images courtesy of 1stDibs

The jewelry experts at 1stDibs also foresee a preference towards glamorous designers from the 1940s to ‘80s: Suzanne Belperron; René Boivin, especially pieces produced by his widow Jeanne from the ‘30s and ‘40s; Fred Paris, known for his ‘80s modern style and a particular shade of pink; Lalaounis’ gold pieces inspired by nature and ancient history; and the “King of Diamonds, Harry Winston.

“Shoppers come to 1stDibs because they know they can find everything from a dazzling platinum-and-diamond, art deco engagement ring to a bold, 1970s, Van Cleef & Arpels lapis-lazuli-and-gold bracelet — or even a loose gemstone that they can have made into a bespoke piece,” Mr. Freund said, in a statement.

“It’s this wealth of extraordinary inventory that creates aficionados and reminds us that the voyage of discovery is part of the fun.”