HONOLULU RESTAURANTS

This worthy restaurant is like that very rare shell you stumble upon on a perfect day at the beach -- well polished and without a flaw. We've never had a bad experience here, and we've never heard of anyone else doing so, either. The "Wong Way," as it's not so jokingly called by his staff, includes an ingrained understanding of the aloha spirit, evident in the skilled but unstarched service, and creative and playful interpretations of island cuisine. Try Da Bag (seafood steamed in a Mylar pouch), Chinatown Roast Duck Nachos, and Poki Pines (rice-studded seafood wonton appetizers). With a view of the Ko'olau Mountains, warm tones of koa wood and lauhala grass weaving, you forget you're on the third floor of an office building. Not to be missed. AE, MC, V. No lunch.

This many-windowed, multilevel room takes delightful advantage of the restaurant's perch above the beach, facing Diamond Head. Chef Roberto Los Baños creates uncomplicated contemporary cuisine -- grilled fish, steaks, and chops accented with East-West fusion flavors. The experienced staff, often called on to serve the VIPs who favor this hotel, extends unruffled and gracious service. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Chai Chaowasaree's stylish, light-bathed and orchid-draped lunch and dinner restaurant expresses the sophisticated side of this Thai-born immigrant. He plays East against West on the plate in signature dishes such as kataifi (baked and shredded phyllo), macadamia-crusted prawns, 'ahi katsu (tuna steaks dredged crisp Japanese breadcrumbs and quickly deep-fried), crispy duck confetti spring rolls, and seafood risotto. Some of Hawai'i's best-known contemporary Hawaiian musicians play brief dinner shows here Wednesday through Sunday. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat.-Mon.

This beautifully appointed room, with its surprising view across Kapi'olani Park and up the slopes of Diamond Head, has a split personality: quiet dinner house in the early evening, very happening bar in the late evening. New at the helm is award-winning chef Guillaume Burlion; expect contemporary sophistication with a French classic underpinning. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Everything about this room speaks of quality and sophistication: the wall of windows with their beach views, the avante-garde cutlery and dinnerware, the solicitous staff and border-busting Pacific Rim cuisine. They do tend to get a bit architectural (lots of edible stacks and towers), but the food invariably tastes every bit as good as it looks. The international breads and the dessert sampler in particular are noteworthy. AE, D, MC, V. No lunch Sat.

Legendary is the word for the Sunday brunch buffet at this long-established restaurant, named for a Hawaiian kingdom chamberlain who became the consort of the last queen, Lili'uokalania. With a network of koi ponds running through the multilevel restaurant, a view of Diamond Head and a favorite surfing area, and over-the-top seafood specials, it's the choice of Oahuans with something to celebrate. An appetizer and small plates menu is available in the bar. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

La Mer, like the hotel in which it's housed (Halekulani, "House Befitting Heaven"), is pretty much heavenly. The softly lighted, low-ceiling room has its windows open to the breeze, the perfectly framed vista of Diamond Head, and the faint sound of music from a courtyard below. The food captures the rich and yet sunny flavors of the south of France in one tiny, exquisite course after another. We recommend the degustation menu; place yourself in the sommelier's hands for wine choices from the hotel's exceptional cellar. Reservations essential. Jacket required. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

This microscopic sushi bar (15 seats) is an adjunct of a wholesale seafood market operated by gregarious South African expatriate Douglas Mitchell, who oversees the sushi chefs and keeps customers chatting. The fish, air-freighted from around the world, is ultra-fresh, well-cut, and nicely presented. You can spend as much or as little as you like -- $40 for a half-dozen pieces of prime bluefin tuna belly, or just a few dollars for pickled plum sushi. Reservations essential. MC, V.

Perched along the sea wall at historic Gray's Beach, Orchids is beloved of power breakfasters, ladies who lunch, and family groups celebrating at the elaborate Sunday brunch. La Mer, upstairs, is better known for evening, but we have found dinner at Orchids equally enjoyable. The fold-back walls open to the breezes, the orchids add splashes of color, the seafood is perfectly prepared, and the wine list is intriguing. Plus, it is more casual and a bit less expensive than La Mer. Whatever meal you have here, finish with the hotel's signature coconut layer cake, a longtime favorite of the local-born elite, who consider Halekulani something of a private club. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

In this casual setting, great for families, diners can down crab and lobster -- but since these come from elsewhere, we recommend the catch of the day, the char siu (Chinese barbecue), baby back ribs, or Sam's special fried poke (flash-fried tuna). This eatery's warehouse size sets the tone for its bambucha (huge) portions. An on-site microbrewery brews five varieties of Big Aloha beer. Sam Choy's is in Iwilei past Downtown Honolulu on the highway heading to Honolulu International Airport. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

You may find this restaurant's approach exasperating and a little condescending. Although it's possible to order from the menu, you're strongly encouraged to order omakase-style (oh-mah-ka-say, roughly, "trust me"), letting the chef send out his choices for the night. The waiters keep up a steady mantra: "Please, no shoyu on this one." "One piece, one bite." But then you take the first bite of California baby squid stuffed with Louisiana crab or unctuous toro ('ahi belly) smeared with a light soy reduction, washed down with a $20 glass of the smoothest sake you've ever tasted, and any trace of annoyance will vanish. Chef Seiji Kamagawa stands front and center at the counter, his hands -- graceful as a conductor's, precise as a surgeon's -- forming sushi or slicing sashimi, his eyes sternly examining the room. Caution: the courses come very rapidly; ask to be served every other time. Even bigger caution: the courses, generally two pieces of sushi or 6-8 slices of sashimi, add up fast. It's easy to spend more than $100 in a half hour, not counting drinks. Still, the meal will be as unforgettable as the tab. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. and Mon.