East of town in Shaker Heights or in the valley of the Chagrin River, Cleveland's graceful suburban neighborhoods have long been among the country's most desirable. And now, for those living in the Flats near downtown, the sight of the blue herons nesting on the shores of the Cuyahoga seems like an everyday event. With its incredible, decade-long waterfront revival, this city with a heart of gold has the beautiful face it truly deserves.