There's an image of the American heartland we all hold in our imaginations-a place where the people are friendly, streets are lined with trees and the bustle of downtown is just a short drive from the rollings of the countryside. In Indianapolis, that's not just an image-it's true to life. Once a year, over Memorial Day weekend, hundreds of thousands of people visit for a famous auto race. It's the world's largest one-day sporting event, and it traces its roots to a time when Indianapolis was neck and neck with Detroit among the world's auto makers. Classic makes like Duesenberg and Stutz have long since passed into the pages of history, but their memory is alive at the Indy 500, where the winner still celebrates with a quart of cold milk-healthy, wholesome, and about the only homogenized thing you'll find in a city that hasn't relinquished its unique local flavor.